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Earth Surface Dynamics An interactive open-access journal of the European Geosciences Union
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https://doi.org/10.5194/esurf-2019-70
© Author(s) 2019. This work is distributed under
the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License.
https://doi.org/10.5194/esurf-2019-70
© Author(s) 2019. This work is distributed under
the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License.

Submitted as: research article 09 Dec 2019

Submitted as: research article | 09 Dec 2019

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A revised version of this preprint is currently under review for the journal ESurf.

Emerging crescentic patterns in modeled double sandbar systems

Giovanni Coco1, Daniel Calvete2, Francesca Ribas2, Huib E. de Swart3, and Albert Falques2 Giovanni Coco et al.
  • 1School of Environment, Faculty of Science, University of Auckland, Auckland, New Zealand
  • 2Dep. Física, Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya, Barcelona, Spain
  • 3Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research Utrecht, Utrecht University, Utrecht, The Netherlands

Abstract. The morphodynamic stability of double-barred beaches is explored using a numerical model based on linear stability analysis. Surfzone hydrodynamics is described by coupling depth and wave averaged conservation of mass and momentum with the wave-energy and phase equations, including roller dynamics. A simplified sediment transport formulation relates flow to seabed changes. Under normal wave incidence an alongshore uniform coast with a cross-shore profile characterized by the presence of two sandbars, can be unstable, thereby resulting in the development of crescentic/rip channel patterns. Our study demonstrates that sandbar coupling can be either in-phase (highs and lows of both sandbars are at the same alongshore position) or out-of-phase (highs and lows of one sandbar correspond to lows and highs of the other sandbar). In line with observations, results of numerical simulations show a large variability in the possible emerging bottom patterns. Our analysis indicates that the inner bar-modes are dominant for large height/depth differences between the two sandbars crests and small offshore wave heights, while patterns related to the outer sandbar dominate for small values of the difference in sandbar depth. For intermediate differences between the two sandbars depths, patterns on both longshore bars appear to be fully coupled. For relatively larger waves and large depth over the outer sandbar, patterns develop close to the shoreline/inner surfzone.

Giovanni Coco et al.

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Status: final response (author comments only)
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Giovanni Coco et al.

Giovanni Coco et al.

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Latest update: 28 Mar 2020
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Short summary
Sandbars are ubiquitous features the surf zone. They are rarely straight and more often develop crescentic shapes. Their presence affects wave transformation and can result in deadly rip currents. We use a numerical analysis to show the conditions leading to the different configurations and under which conditions patterns emerge.
Sandbars are ubiquitous features the surf zone. They are rarely straight and more often develop...
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